Friday, 4 March 2016

Moschino RTW Fall 2016 - Bonfire of the Vanities


Is there forgiveness for such a late report? Moschino is just a brand that can never be ignored.

 What keeps the gears in Jeremy Scott's head turning? Everything in the general peripheral. Anything. If that recent collection with a couture carwash is anything to go by. Certainly, getting your car washed is a hassle. You're in the car, the water cascading majestically down the windshield, you may as well mix boredom with business.  But the nods to childhood nostalgia are where he wins endearment, from Barbie to Mcdonalds to even the Warner Bros characters that featured heavily in sports luxe garments which had a very resounding echo with Space Jam.

For this Fall collection, by comparison, it was far more toned down. Paying a homage to its origins but still punching through the glass ceiling with experimentation. The location, think haunted, rundown mansion-esque. Dimmed lighting, lavish rugs .. possibility of a ghost lurking around the corner. 

The real inspiration behind this collection is the Bonfire of the Vanities. Bur rather than the real event where authorities demanded the burning of objects that gave rise to cardinal sin, Jeremy Scott took influences from the novel adaptation by Tom Wolfe. Very literally. Is it ironic for an acclaimed fashion brand to declare Fashion Kills on bags that resemble cigarette packets, all of which remain branded, of course. As if we need a plethora of reminders that indulgence is best handed in small doses. If this was translated to this era, would we find cracked iPhones and melted MAC lipsticks staining the dresses artistically? As the elder generation like to continually scoff, they are the objects to secure utmost vanity. But I suppose the sight of that will cause half the audience to cry out in shock horror.



The classic motorcycle leather jacket refreshed into sweeping ballgowns or becoming it itself. Indeed, either this was a sign of normality to come or the buildup to a climax. 



The classic oomph of a bouffant 80s silk prom dress transformed into a belt.. because we're not quite there yet to be bringing capes back in style. And yet somehow, the effect seems bewilderingly wearable with denim and leather shorts, accentuated by exquisite thigh high boots.



Fashion can be rather formulaic at times - by playing up elements to achieve different aesthetics. We have textures, palettes and then we have lengths. Coat tails weren't meant to be damned for all eternity. If denim has proved itself to be eternal why not dashing formal wear?




Just a casual reminder, everyone. I too, am made of skin and bone. Just a little tidbit, I'd like you to know about me. There's certainly been nods to Steampunk. The utilitarian leather, the fancy waistcoats, the goggles.. it's almost a modern, modern interpretation of it. Whereby instead of science fiction they've allowed room for reinvention.




The next biggest trend ready to hit 2016 like a ton of bricks is singed. Distressed, meet stressed. The time has never been more ripe for thrifting. Pick up a pair of shorts for less than $5 and hold your scissors aloft, bouncing off the gleam of the light before hacking away. Then when you're done mastering distressing, hold what's left over a candle and marvel at your creation. Like Frankenstein did. There is a certain appeal to it, someone sew lace panels beneath the charred fragments and report to me STAT. 


All this, to lead to the greatest parody of fashion as Jeremy Scott proclaimed. Either she got into a scuffle and was outwitted by the unexpected duo of a talking llama and a peasant or there is a greater mystery to behold. Chandeliers on their own, are grandiose. And they cause the style of the room to be so in tandem. But perhaps this was a tactic in ensuring that Instagram would explode. The response it would create is indisputable. 

So did this year's collection hold a candle to his last collections?

XX

Jeannie

4 comments:

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